Bandhavgarh National Park


	A tiger strolls through the Chakradhara meadow


	Every muscle taut, a tigress is poised to launch an attack on some deer. As it turns out she was not successful on this occasion.

Bandhavgarh
AB Apana / www.WildPhotoToursIndia.com

Bandhavgarh National Park and Tiger Reserve is undoubtedly the best place in the world to see and photograph tigers in the wild. Situated in India, in what used to be known as the Central Provinces (today's state of Madhya Pradesh), Bandhavgarh has one of the highest tiger densities of any park in India.

The sight of a tiger in the wild is unforgettable. The size and the colour are remarkable and as one gets closer, you suddenly realize that you never thought that they were the size of small ponies. When you get close you realize just how big, how powerful, and how beautiful they actually are. Only then do you realize that this is a completely different beast from those you have seen in zoos.

There will always be three defining memories of Bandhavgarh in my mind. The first is of going to the Amanalla (a stream) on a riding elephant and encountering five tigers, a male, a female, and their three grown cubs, cooling off in the water. The second, again at Amanalla, is of watching three tiger cubs and then suddenly hearing their mother calling them. The tigress appeared and the three cubs rushed to her to greet her and nuzzle her. She then led them away to feed on a kill. The third, near the Banbehi watchtower, is of being present when an angry tiger, albeit a ten-month old cub, defended its langur kill from a sibling. The roaring gave new meaning to the word 'blood-curdling.'


Chital at Rajbahera as the sun begins to set.

The forests of the Central Provinces are dominated by an indigenous tree known as sal (Shorea robusta). The undergrowth is not heavy as in the forests of South India, which are choked with lantana (Lantana camara), an introduction from South America. Bandhavgarh also has large meadows, locally known as baheras, the best known of which is Rajbahera, where one may see vast herds of deer grazing. Bandhavgarh is now uninhabited, but it used to be the site of a fort, now in ruins. Although movement on foot is prohibited in most Indian parks one is allowed to walk to Bandhavgarh fort. Do so and experience the jungle up close. Bird watchers will particularly enjoy this walk.


This young male and his mate were encountered relaxing under a grove of trees early one morning.

Tigers may also be encountered in the meadows, especially at Chakradhara and these encounters offer splendid opportunities for photography since one can photograph from the jeep and does not have to cope with the low and dappled light of the forest floor. Remember that tigers are predators and do not advertise their presence by appearing in areas where you will get a clean background. It is a rewarding experience to photograph the tiger on its own terms and in its native environment. In particular remember that the various grasses and bushes around a tiger will fool the AF on the camera, so use manual focus.

When tigers are located away from the roads and in the jungles. Riding elephants are used to ferry tourists and photographers to see the tigers. Remember that light levels can be very low in the jungle and the light can be very contrasty. Remember that your mount, the elephant, is a living and moving tripod that tends to fidget, break wind, and reach for tasty morsel from the surrounding vegetation. Therefore lenses with stabilization are highly recommended. Personally I recommend a 300 f4 and a 70-200 f2.8 because a 300 f2.8 can be unmanageable on an elephant, more so since you will share the elephant with its driver, or mahawat, and three other people.


	Sometimes you can get this close; 300f4 + 1.4x extender.


	A tigress rests in a cavern. Her cubs were about ten months old, but she still occasionally kept an eye on us.

A stay of about a week should result in several images of tigers, but remember that the tigers here are wild and that Bandhavgarh is not a safari park or game farm. Whatever you do, follow park rules and do not leave your jeep unless you are given permission to do so. Wear green or brown coloured clothing and remember to protect camera and lens from the all-pervasive dust. (Digital shooters beware!).

Other than the tigers, for which Bandhavgarh is justly famous, the park may offer a leopard, sloth bear (Melursus ursinus), or jungle cat (Felis chaus), but such sightings are quite rare. You will be have unlimited opportunities to photograph the pretty chital (Axis axis), including stags with fine heads, and the large and shaggy sambar (Cervus unicolor), a favorite food of the tiger. Both chital and sambar are photogenic and some excellent images may be obtained by going to one of the larger meadows like Rajbahera or Sehra early in the morning.

Amongst primates, the red-bottomed rhesus macaque (Macaca multta ) is found in small numbers in Bandhavgarh, but the most prominent of the primates is the Hanuman langur (Semnopithecus entellus). The langur is definitely a subject worthy of your lens for they are highly photogenic and backlit langur with their silver-grey pelage make excellent subjects. Wild boar (Sus scrofa) are also encountred in Bandhavgarh. Above all enjoy the sights and sounds of the Indian jungle. But be warned, once you have seen a tiger in the wild, you will be hooked. Once you have heard the alarm call of a langur or chital and then felt a shiver run down your spine as the great cat emerges from the gloom of the forest, you will be hooked again. And once you have heard the deep call of a tiger or its terrifying roar, you will be hooked for life and will continue to return year after year. Tigers are addictive and Bandhavgarh still remains the best place to address the addiction.


Tourists on a riding elephant. Can you see the resting tigress? She is to the left of the elephant, just below the tree with new foliage at the back.


Tourists in jeeps watch a tigress resting by water.

Getting to Bandhavgarh: Bandhavgarh is remote and is best reached from Delhi from where one may fly to Khajuraho or to Jaballpur, both about 250 kms from the park, and then take a (pre-arranged) taxi to the park (allow 7-8 hours over bad roads). Khajuraho is famous for the erotic sculpture that decorates its temples and it is worth allowing time to see and photograph Khajuraho.

When to go: Mid-February to the end of June is the best time to visit Bandhavgarh. April and May are terribly hot but it is easier to see tigers near waterholes. The park is shut from July until October/November (re-opening depends on the state of the park roads following the monsoon). The weather from November to mid-Febraury is cool but the park can get very busy. The serious wildlife enthusiast or photographer must avoid visiting the park between the end of December and early January as the park is beset by hordes of tourists.

Where to stay: A search on Google will reveal several options to suit all budgets, but remember that you get what you pay for. India is not as expensive as Africa, but it is quite impossible to visit India for next to nothing unless you happen to be a backpacker who is roughing it. The more expensive resorts include visits to the park in the daily tariff, but this is in a jeep with other guests. If you want a jeep to yourself (recommended for photographers) make sure you book one at extra cost well in advance.

Some tips: Carry plenty of film and batteries. Bandhavgarh is remote and nothing is available there, or for that matter not within a thousand kilometres. International direct dialing is available, but don't count on internet access.